If you can select the object or background somewhat accurately by color, do so. Select parts of the image that need to be 100% opaque or 0% opaque. At some point, perhaps not immediately, you should magnify the image to about 400% (each pixel of the image is seen and edited as a 4x4 block of pixels on your screen). Set an unmodified image as what you will view (the top one is easiest). Always verify that you are editing the right thing. For example, you might edit the mask of the WIP layer while looking at the unmodified image. Sometimes you will be editing things you can't see. You will need this to control what you are looking at and what you are editing. Get used to doing -click and -click on the thumbnail images in the layers dialog. You will be given special scaling instructions later. Warning: once you have the mask, you may not rotate or scale the image normally. You might start with a selection, or by using the grayscale value of the WIP layer. Give the work in progress (WIP) layer a rough initial mask. solid magenta (write-protect this if you can).solid green (write-protect this if you can).an image you will modify - the "work in progress" layer.unmodified image (write-protect this if you can).From top to bottom you will need something like this: You need to have just one RGB layer without mask or alpha. If you have rotated or cropped the image in your image editor, flatten it now. GIMP users should choose "XCF", and Adobe Photoshop users should choose "PSD", for example. Save the image - choose whatever native format supports layers, masks, alpha, etc. If you didn't crop it yet, you may find that your image editor is very slow. Jpegtran -trim -copy none -crop 512x1728+160+128 cropped.jpgīring that image up in your image editor. There is a special tool called jpegtran that lets you crop an image without the normal quality loss. If only one is buried, you might be able to copy the other one as a replacement.įirst of all, be sure to avoid re-saving the image as a JPEG. If they are buried in something, you will need to draw new ones. You can shrink this later to hide your mistakes.īe sure that the image is not too grainy, dim, or washed out. ![]() Choose an image with an object that is over 1000 pixels across if you can. Very large images are more forgiving of mistakes, and thus easier to work with. (Rotation is only legitimate for gamma=1.0 images.) Rotation will also make an image darker because most image editing software is very bad about gamma handling. ![]() ![]() Images that don't need rotation are best, images that need lots of rotation (30 to 60 degrees) are next best, and images that need just a few degrees are worst. Rotating an image can make it blurry, especially if you only rotate by a few degrees. ![]() The impossible ideal is that, for example, two wheels of a car are perfectly hidden behind the other two. As a general rule, telephoto side views are the best. Images that show an object from the corner are difficult to fit into a nice drawing. You need an image that has a useful orientation. (Hire a lawyer if you feel the need for legal advice.)įor personal use, any image you can legitimately modify and use for your own personal use should be fine. Your own images can be placed in the Public Domain or a suitable license, such as the Creative Commons CC0 by declaring it so. (Note: the *.mil sites include non-military content, too!) Google image queries including either site:gov or site:mil will supply many suitable images. Images produced by the US government are Public Domain, but be aware that the US government sometimes uses other images on the web. If you wish to submit artwork to the Tux Paint developers for consideration for inclusion in the official project, or if you wish to release your own copy of Tux Paint, bundled with your own graphics, you need an image that is compatible with the GNU General Public License used by Tux Paint. Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are also best done with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as follows. Dealing with semi-transparent objects (fire, moving fan blade, kid's balloon) or light-giving objects (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done with custom software. This 'How-To' assumes you are dealing with normal opaque objects. There are easier and faster methods that produce lower quality. This 'How-To' assumes that you want to make an excellent Tux Paint stamp, in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG image (e.g., a digital photograph). Copyright © 2006-2022 by Albert Cahalan and others see AUTHORS.txt.
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